1. How Do You Ship My BAD ASS Bike?

We Ship All Bikes Partially Disassembled in A Heavyweight Carton, Via UPS or FEDEX GROUND In the Lower 48. See Our Full Shipping Policy Here

2. What Assembly Is Involved?

We Remove the Front Wheel and Handlebars to Ship. The Headlamp, Pedals and Seat Must Be Installed, As Well As Any Accessories. You Are Welcome to Do the Assembly Yourself With the Assistance of Our Virtual Manual And Provided Tools.  The Assembly Time is Typically 45-60 Minutes.  If For Any Reason You are Not Comfortable or Capable of Performing the Assembly, We Recommend Contacting Your Local Bike Shop or A Mobile Bicycle Repair Service to Perform the Assembly For You.  One of the Benefits of Choosing Such a Service Is They May Perform Maintenance on Your Bike Throughout It's Lifecycle. This Will Give Them an Opportunity to Get Familiar With Your New Bike. 

3. What is the Recommended Tire Pressure?

All BAD ASS Bikes Come Standard With 26X4 Fat Tires. All Versions (Street, Sand and Whitewall) Have a Maximum Tire Pressure Rating of 20 PSI. If You Go A Little Less (15 PSI), The Ride Softens Up At the Expense of Softer Cornering. At 20 PSI You'll Get Maximum Firmness and Speed on A Hard Surface. For Sand Riding You May Decide to Go Lower (10-15PSI) For More Traction. We Don't Recommend Anything Lower than 10 PSI.  Each Rider is Different and Has Different Preferences, So Experiment to Your Likeness.  Just Do Not Overinflate as the Tube May Burst or the Tire May Pop Off the Bead. When the Weather is Colder, Your Tire Pressure Will Drop, So Make Sure to Check during the Winter Months.  Do the Same If You Bring Your Bike to High Altitude. 

4. Which Tire Should I Choose?

The Whitewall and Black Street Tire Are the Same Tire, Just Different Color. If You're Doing Mostly Road, Path, Sidewalk and Hard Pack Surface Riding, We Suggest the Street Tires.  If You Will Predominantly Ride on Sand, Gravel, Snow and Rough Terrain, We Suggest the Sand Tire. Each Tire Will Perform Better on It's Respective Terrain, Yet Both Can Be Used on All Terrains.  The Sand Tire Will be Noisier at Speed and May Be A Little Slower at Top Speed. For the All-Season, All Terrain Rider, You Can Buy a Set of Both and Switch Them Out as You See Fit.

 

5. My Bike Is Making A Noise. What Is It?

Any noises from your bike should be diagnosed and resolved as soon as possible. It is common for noises to pop up and they are a notification to you that something is out of alignment, loose or being overexerted.

One of the more common noises will be a squeal or grind from your brakes.  This is most commonly due to misalignment of the caliper, a bent rotor, or worn or soiled pads. 

To Align your brakes, Loosen the two allen bolts that attach the caliper to the caliper bracket (do not loosen the caliper bracket). Raise the wheel off the ground and spin it.  Apply the brake for that wheel until it stops the wheel.  Hold the brake lever down tight while tightening the caliper bolts.  Do the same for the other wheel.  This will typically resolve the issue on a new bike.  . 

A buzzing from the tank or rear hub motor will indicate the controller and motor are being overexerted. this can lead to failure of the controller and motor if prolonged. Buzzing from the controller is a sign of too much strain on the electrical drive system

Causes for this can be:

Overexerting the motor on a hot day. 

Underinflated tires (check to make sure tires are at least 15 psi on street)

Trying to climb a hill with throttle only (always help the bike by pedaling when climbing.  Every bit of pedaling greatly improves motor function)

There is too much weight on the bike

The battery level is low and you are trying to push the bike too hard ( do not go open throttle on a low battery )

Please read this blog post on battery life as it pertains to overall electric drive system longevity

6. How Do I Maintain My BAD ASS Bike?

Most maintenance on your bike can be performed by your local bike shop. if you currently maintain your own bicycle or e-bike, then most maintenance will be second nature. the most common maintenance items will be:

Brake pad inspection and change

Tire pressure maintenance

Tires / tubes inspection and changes

Spoke inspection and tightening

Brake alignment/caliper position adjustment

Bent rotor replacement

Chain inspection and replacement

Headset adjustment

Battery replacement for led tail light

Hand grip replacement

Derailleur adjustment

Electrical system maintenance should be performed by a reputable shop or sent to BAD ASS directly for replacement

Due to the speed and power of the bike, we strongly suggest taking it to your local bike shop or mobile bicycle mechanic for inspection and maintenance at least once a year.  If you ride alot more often and/or year round, seasonally may be a better schedule for you. Ultimately you and your bike are not cheap and the safety of the rider and longevity of your investment are directly affected by how regularly you maintain the working parts.

7. How Does Pedal Assist Work?

Pedal assist is a technology that uses multiple sensors to intelligently engage (and disengage) the electric drive system based upon rider preferences and tendencies, all with an overriding factor of rider safety.

For your Bad Ass Bike, the main sensor that communicates between the rider and the controller/motor is called a cadence sensor. It is mounted in the bottom bracket and is a 12 magnet sensor. A cadence sensor does just what it sounds like it does, it measures the rider’s pedaling cadence and communicates the pedaling speed to the controller. The controller, in turn, draws power from the battery and sends it to the motor based upon how much power is necessary to compliment the cadence being applied by the rider. The rider determines what level of power he/she wants to be utilized via the up and down buttons on the left handlebar. When peddling slow the motor will produce more power and as the rider pedals more, less power is supplied from the motor.

When you first start pedaling it will take approximately 1/2 rotation of the pedals before the system engages. For this reason many people start motion with the throttle, then begin pedaling to ensure smooth transition. We suggest starting on pedal assist level 1 and adjusting up from there depending on your desired speed and incline.

Just as the motor engages when you begin pedaling, it will disengage when you stop pedaling. If you start pedaling again it will kick back in.

As a safety precaution, your hydraulic brake system is outfitted with two state of the art motor inhibitor sensors, which signal the controller to immediately disengage power to the motor when the brake lever is depressed. Any time you are uncomfortable with the speed just lightly tap the brake and it will disengage the motor immediately. Brake as you would normally brake if you want to stop or slow down.

Tips:

Start motion with the bike in first gear, gently using the throttle to propel you forward

Pedal assist will kick in after 1/2 rotation of the pedals

Increase the pedal assist level depending on the incline and speed desired

GEARING, GEARING, GEARING!!! - Start off in a low gear and use your right thumb to increase gear just like riding a traditional bike. Always climb hills in a low gear, first or second, shifting up as you gain momentum.

Feather the brakes to stop power to the motor; To stop or slow down, brake normally

As you gain comfort with the bike, be more aggressive with shifting, pedal assist levels, throttling, and braking

Always remember - The motor is on the bike to help the rider, not replace the rider.